CAFE CLUNY

Edited by Robin Raisfeld & Rob Patronite

This eminently presentable West Village cafe is the newest venture of the Odeon's Lynn Wagenknecht, and except for the large wooden bug hanging in the back room, everything about it is petite, friendly, and self-consciously correct. All the old brasserie chestnuts appear on the menu (hanger steak, duck confit), and they're mostly all pretty good. Be sure to try the profiteroles, which seem to have been beamed in from the Odeon, circa 1982.